Archive for the ‘Stained Glass’ Category

Supplies for Getting Started in Stained Glass

Saturday, May 30th, 2009

This list is meant to help create a shopping list for the beginning stained glass art student. Not all of the items will be needed for every project, for instance you will use either lead cames OR copper foil and their corresponding accessories depending on the stained glass style you will be working with. Other tools listed may be very helpful, but not entirely necessary, one pair of pliers may be enough to do several jobs for example.

Glass Cutters- One of the most important tools you will use in stained glass making, good glass cuts will make or break your project. These range from very inexpensive carbide steel wheel cutters (you will need to add cutting oil as you go along) to slightly more expensive self-oiling tungsten carbide or pistol grip wheel cutters.

Cutting Oil- This helps to reduce friction allowing a smoother cut and also keeps glass debris from encumbering the cutting wheel’s progress.

Soldering Iron- (pronounced like soddering) This is used to melt lead solder which in turn is used to join pieces of metal, such as the lead cames or copper foil that will hold your stained glass pieces together.

Solder- The type you will be using in stained glass making should be an alloy (mixture) of tin and lead. This usually comes in a spool of either a 50/50 or 60/40 blend. The 60/40 is slightly more expensive, flows more smoothly and is therefore preferable for making a stained glass project.

Sal Ammoniac- This is soldering iron tip cleaner made from a naturally occurring mineral that reacts to the heat of the soldering iron and removes debris when the iron is gently rubbed on it.

Flux- Helps remove oxidation and other dirt and debris from the metal surfaces so that the solder can adhere to it. This is an absolute necessity to keep your stained glass pieces together; the solder just won’t “stick” without it!

Flux Brush- A very inexpensive brush used to apply the flux.

Flux Remover- Can be used to neutralize flux or patina and is often used at the end of projects to clean up small errors and over-flow.

Cutting Square- Helpful when drawing squares or other designs requiring a right angle.

Ruler- Used for measuring project dimensions as well as for drawing or cutting a straight line. A non-skid backing such as cork or rubber will help keep it from sliding on the glass.

Pattern Shears- These are special scissors that automatically cut the proper size strip of paper between pattern pieces to allow room for the lead cames or copper foils to be placed between the various stained glass pieces of the design.

Grozing Pliers- These pliers have narrow, serrated jaws for picking up small chucks of glass and can be used to remove uneven or jagged pieces of stained glass after cutting.

Running Pliers- These thick pliers help to carefully break stained glass pieces that have been scored on the design lines.

Needle Nose Pliers- A good all around tool to keep handy, can be used for small detail work.

Wire Cutters- These can be used to cut reinforcing wire or the picture hanging wire to hang your finished stained glass art project.

Hammer or Mallet- A good rubber headed mallet can be used to gently tap stained glass pieces into place.

Carborundum Stone- A trademarked name for a grinding tool used to smooth the edges of cut pieces of stained glass. Should be wetted periodically to make smoothing easier.

Electric Glass Grinder- A bit more luxurious way to smooth the glass edges; this is a machine that will do the job faster and more efficiently. This is definitely nice, but optional.

Copper Foil- One of the choices of material to hold the pieces of stained glass together. Comes in various widths depending on the look of your project-make sure your pattern shears are the same width as your foil or came.

Copper Foil Dispenser- Another nicety, this makes handling the copper foil easier, much the way a tape dispenser makes tape easier to handle.

Lead Cames- The original choice in stained glass support systems. These come as long strips of lead with grooves or channels on either one side or both, depending on whether it is to be used as an inside or outer edge piece of the stained glass.

Lead Vise- Holds the lead came in place to allow it to be stretched before use.

Lead Cutters- Also known as lead pliers these snips are especially helpful when cutting cames for use in the corners of your stained glass project.

The information about Stained Glass presented here will do one of two things: either it will reinforce what you know about Stained Glass or it will teach you something new. Both are good outcomes.

Lead Knife- Can be used to make clean straight cuts on lead cames.

Horseshoe Nails- Great for holding frames in place when assembling your stained glass project.

Dustpan and Brush- Helps to keep your workplace clean which is important in making stained glass projects because debris will prevent things from sticking properly.

Safety Goggles- Keeps pieces of lead or glass from damaging the eyes during cutting, always remember “safety first”!

Wooden Block Holder- Can be helpful for holding pieces of stained glass.

Masking Tape- Always handy in the workshop; may be used to hold pattern pieces together or many other uses.

Picture Hanging Wire or Other Fasteners- For hanging your completed stained glass project.

Lead Board with Right Angle Support- Useful in holding a lead stained glass project in place during assembly while keeping the edges clean and straight.

Wood or Plastic Fid- Great as a burnishing or spreading tool when applying foil to stained glass.

Glazing Cement- Seals and strengthens the joint areas of the lead cames.

Whiting- Helps to dry and set the glazing cement. Can also be used to remove excess putty from the stained glass.

Stiff Bristle Brush- Used for applying glazing cement.

Patina- Liquid solution that changes the appearance of solder, can give a more antiqued appearance.

Rubber Gloves- Absolutely necessary when applying patina or any other solvents to the project; you do not want these penetrating your skin!

Mirror Sealer- This aerosol spray is used on the back of mirrors to keep the reflective coating from being scratched or damaged.

Finishing Compound- Provides the finishing touch to your stained glass project, adding polish and shine while providing a protective finish to help prevent oxidation and tarnish buildup.

Pushpins, Tacks and Jig Material- Items that may be helpful in holding certain pieces together while assembling your stained glass project.

Craft Knife- Perfect for correcting small errors in copper foiling and other small tasks.

Steel Wool- May remove oxidized material from solder and other metal parts.

Plastic Basin and Sponge- With warm soapy water to clean glass and metal debris from your stained glass workspace.

Carbon Paper- For making pattern copies.

Tracing Paper- For tracing the original design unto a clean copy.

Rubber Cement- For holding pattern pieces on glass to make cutting them out easier.

Pens, Pencils, Markers and Colored Pencils- Needed for drawing and coloring in pattern pieces.

There you have it, a not-so-condensed shopping list to get you on your way to a new hobby in stained glass art making!

Hopefully the sections above have contributed to your understanding of Stained Glass. Share your new understanding about Stained Glass with others. They’ll thank you for it.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, who just joined this Free Website Traffic generation site

How to Decorate With Stained Glass

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009

Have you ever wondered what exactly is up with Stained Glass? This informative report can give you an insight into everything you’ve ever wanted to know about Stained Glass.

Once upon a time, thousands of years ago, stained glass was used only in grand Cathedral windows to bring in sunlight and illuminate the “hearts of men”. Many years later, wealthy aristocrats added the elegance of stained glass windows to their mansions and palaces. These days just about anyone can decorate their home with the beauty and elegance of stained glass. Back in the 18th century, stained glass artists like Tiffany and La Farge changed the face of stained glass and proved that the medium could be used for more than just windows. Light fixtures, lamps, picture frames and mirrors lined with stained glass are all beautiful additions to almost any home or business.

Where should you add stained glass? The entryway to the home is a good place to begin as this is where your guest’s first impression is made and it is also the first sight welcoming you home each day. Stained glass will add color and style to an otherwise boring door and window pane in your entryway. The stained glass will allow light in while adding very desirable privacy to your home. Modern stained glass comes in a variety of styles and colors and can easily be matched to any d?cor whether modern or classic.

Living rooms can benefit from unique and beautiful Tiffany-style lamps. Choose a color and style that compliments your upholstery, carpet and wall colors or go for a highly contrasting eclectic look. The stained glass lamp can simply blend in and be a useful source of light for reading or it can be the added bit of character that serves as a “conversation piece” in the home. Either way “a thing of beauty is a joy to behold” so add some joy to your living space!

The dining room is a great place for a stained glass chandelier. Beveled edges and translucent colors will add interest and excitement to your table setting. Lighting certainly sets the mood for the dining room and stained glass provides just the right feel. Food even seems to taste better when served in beautiful surroundings, don’t you agree?

See how much you can learn about Stained Glass when you take a little time to read a well-researched article? Don’t miss out on the rest of this great information.

The bathroom can be accentuated with a beautifully stained glass framed mirror and/or Tiffany-style light fixtures. How about a jewel-look stained glass soap holder? Use one of the main colors in the stained glass to match your towels, toothbrush holder, shower curtain and soap dispenser to for a fabulous, elegant rich look. These items don’t need to be expensive and your bathroom will look like it belongs to the Vanderbilt’s!

A beautiful stained glass window over the kitchen sink would certainly make doing dishes more enjoyable. Casual meals in the breakfast nook would seem more extraordinary when surrounded by beautiful stained glass. Dishes in one of the jewel-tones of the stained glass and a contrasting jewel-toned tablecloth would pull the look together nicely.

Saving the best for last…the bedroom! Beautiful stained glass lamps gracing the nightstands on either side of the bed could help to set the mood. A stained glass vase or jewelry box on top of the dresser could be just the touch you need.

There are so many ways to decorate with stained glass. You could easily put a stained glass piece in every room of the house either to compliment your decorating theme or even AS your decorating theme. Let your imagination run wild and enjoy your newfound love of stained glass.

You can’t predict when knowing something extra about Stained Glass will come in handy. If you learned anything new about Stained Glass in this article, you should file the article where you can find it again.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this URL Shortening Service, working exactly like TinyURL.com!

Stained Glass Artisan, Louis C. Tiffany

Monday, May 11th, 2009

Have you ever wondered what exactly is up with Stained Glass? This informative report can give you an insight into everything you’ve ever wanted to know about Stained Glass.

Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933) is associated with Art Nouveau style stained glass lamps and windows. He was nicknamed “Rebel in Glass” because he ventured into many avenues of art glass. He founded Tiffany and Company soon after the Civil War and employed several artists to carry out his artistic ideas.

Tiffany had studied painting in Paris and when he returned home, he studied Medieval techniques in glassmaking. From his experimentation of many techniques of glassmaking, he came up with his beautiful “drapery” stained glass which he used to represent the folds and ripples in the robes and gowns of figures in his stained glass windows.

Tiffany’s first figure stained glass window was built in 1878 using opalescent glass from the Heidt glasshouse. He made his first glass tiles at Heidt glass house, his factory in Brooklyn. Tiffany’s stained glass designs were unique and constructed with an aim for stability so that they would last and be enjoyed for generations.

Much of Tiffany’s work no longer exists. Without a thought, people threw away Tifffany stained glass lampshades; and, church and cathedral stained glass windows have been destroyed over time. Some of Tiffany’s stained glass lamp shades, when found, are now valued up to tens of thousands of dollars or more.

Tiffany’s stained glass products were not intended to be mass produced but, rather, were created for individuals or church memorial gifts. Probably only less than half of Tiffany’s stained glass products are still in existence. Those are mostly already in museums or are kept by prominent collectors. So, it is unlikely for you to accidentally run across a Tiffany stained glass lampshade or stained glass window panel that will make you wealthy.

Sometimes the most important aspects of a subject are not immediately obvious. Keep reading to get the complete picture.

Tiffany was an avid painter who painted all his life. His painting ability was very useful to him in designing his significant stained glass windows. His “cartoons” were not merely patterns on paper, but often they were full-size oil paintings on canvas. For Tiffany, stained glass windows were simply another form of painting.

Interestingly, Tiffany’s stained glass windows for public buildings were signed, but stained glass windows he built for individual homes were not signed. He thought the families who lived in the homes would be able to attribute to the fact that he or his company had made their stained glass windows. This has caused problems proving stained glass windows were his.

One of Tiffany’s better known designs was the Wisteria Table Lamp (c. 1900) of which many reproductions have been made. The beautiful stained glass lamp shade is a resemblance of a vine, leaves, and wisteria blossoms dripping all over in beautiful colors.

Tiffany’s stained glass works can be seen in various places. One such place is the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art at Rollins College in Winter Park, Florida where the interior of the chapel Tiffany designed is assembled. It had been designed for the 1893 World Columbian Exposition in Chicago. After the exposition, it had been stored in Tiffany’s mansion until the mansion burned down. The chapel parts and all its stained glass windows were salvaged and rebuilt in the museum at Rollins College.

There are several of Tiffany’s stained glass windows in New Jersey. Stained glass windows at Saint James Church in Fordham, Bronx, New York represent some of Tiffany’s best work from the late 19th century through 1929. Other Tiffany stained glass works can be seen at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, City.

Many references to locations where Tiffany’s stained glass windows and other art can be seen can be found online.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this URL Shortening Service, working exactly like TinyURL.com!

Stained Glass Painting

Monday, May 4th, 2009

There are many techniques that can be used to create beautiful and interesting works of art in stained glass. This article deals with stained glass painting. This technique has been used for centuries and was the most popular form of stained glass during the Renaissance era due to their keen aspiration for intricate details in artwork. Painting of stained glass became so popular, in fact, that the earlier stained glass arts of using “pot metal glass” almost disappeared entirely.

You will need several items handy to do stained glass painting. Obviously you will need paint and paintbrushes, if you cannot afford the specialized stained glass type you may be able to improvise with regular artist’s paintbrushes. You will also need access to a kiln to set your work. Many professional studios will allow you to use their kiln for an hourly rate. Next, you will need a palette for mixing your paint. A piece of sandblasted glass is the most suitable choice for mixing you stained glass paints. A palette knife is a helpful tool in mixing the paint. The paints are made from a mixture of powdered oxides, gum arabic and water.

As with other forms of stained glass art, you will want to start with your design on paper. Make sure there is some definition to your design and that the differently colored areas are outlined in a darker color. You may tape your design to the bottom of your glass so that it will remain in place during painting. Begin painting the dark outlines of your design with a tracer or rigger (long brush with a slender point). You will want your trace paint to be dark enough to block out light and provide contrast with your lighter colors. You must apply the outlines in long, smooth, continuous strokes. Do not try to “go over” your lines once they have dried (which does not take long!).

If you don’t have accurate details regarding Stained Glass, then you might make a bad choice on the subject. Don’t let that happen: keep reading.

If you do you will cause the paint to bubble and separate (fry) when the glass is fired in the kiln. You should not touch the line at all once it has been painted, although you may correct some mistakes and overages by gently scraping the paint off with a toothpick AFTER it has dried completely. Next, your stained glass trace paint is fired in the kiln at approximately 1150? F.

After your trace paint has been fired, you are ready to apply your shading colors. The shading color may be dropped into a particular area of the stained glass and then brushed or “mopped” over the entire area where that color is desired. You may then use various brushes with different strokes or techniques to create a stippled or otherwise textured look. Keep in mind that the color of the shaded area will appear lighter in your finished stained glass project after it has been fired in the kiln.

You may also wish to enhance the look of your project with silver stain. Silver stain will be applied to the back side of your stained glass project (the opposite side from your painting) and will actually change the color of the glass rather than simply cover it. Silver stain can be corrosive as it contains silver nitrate so use with caution and please use clean brushes for this portion of the project. The effect of silver stain is a lovely yellow to amber-colored hue to the stained glass and provides a lovely background to your stained glass artwork.

Your skill and technique in painting stained glass will improve over time, as with any new endeavor. Be patient and allow yourself to enjoy the process. Painting stained glass can be a rewarding hobby and with a little practice you may even create a masterpiece someday!

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this URL Shortening Service, working exactly like TinyURL.com!

How to Install Your Stained Glass Window

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Many centuries ago stained glass windows were used almost exclusively in grandiose cathedrals. The installation was easily achieved as on opening was made in the stone and concrete structure to the window specifications (or the window was made to the size of the opening) and metal loops and bars were cemented into the window opening during construction specifically to be soldered to the metal bars and loops that are attached to the stained glass window. Stained glass in no longer limited to places of religious worship or even to just the rich and famous, so how does one go about installing a stained glass window in a modern day structure?

You have a several options available to you, assuming that you do not live in a grand cathedral and that your home was not specifically constructed with stained glass windows in mind.

One of the easiest ways to install your stained glass window is over the existing window. Your stained glass window overlay should measure about 1/8″ smaller around each edge than the original window. First make sure the existing window and inside window frame is clean and dry, you don’t want any dirt or moisture permanently pressed between the pieces of glass. First, check to see that the stained glass panel will fit into your window. You can place 1/8″ cardboard or wood spacers around the bottom of the window and run a small bead of caulk around the inside edge of the window frame.

Knowledge can give you a real advantage. To make sure you’re fully informed about Stained Glass, keep reading.

You may use either clear caulk or a colored caulk that matches your window frame. Now, press the stained glass panel into place and fill in carefully with additional caulk. Be sure to smooth the caulk carefully with your fingers, wiping the excess unto clean tissue and discarding immediately. It is important not to get the caulk on the stained glass panel (if you do simply wipe it away with clean fingers and wipe them with clean tissue). Once the window is caulked in place you will need to secure it there for 24 hours to allow the caulk to set properly.

Using wood blocks or stacked pieces of cardboard brace the window in place and tape across the bracing for the next day. At this point, you may consider the job complete or you could add some wood trim around the inside for a more finished look and added stability. Another easy solution would be to use your stained glass panel as a window hanging and simply solder hooks to the rebar on your stained glass panel secure a chain into the window frame and hang the stained glass panel. This option allows you to take your stained glass with you if you move.

The next option may require some professional help. You may want to have your stained glass panel put into a wood, aluminum, or vinyl window frame. The stained glass window can be protected on either side with tempered glass which will provide better insulation to your home as well. At this point the window can be installed in the same way as a normal new or replacement window, by screwing it into the window frame. Whatever method you choose, your new stained glass window is sure to add beauty, value and enjoyment to your home.

This article’s coverage of the information is as complete as it can be today. But you should always leave open the possibility that future research could uncover new facts.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this URL Shortening Service, working exactly like TinyURL.com!

Stained Glass Workshop Safety Tips

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Whether you are an experienced or new stained glass crafter or artisan, it is important to think about safety in your stained glass workshop or studio. There are the obvious hazards of working around glass, but tools and chemicals can also be hazardous.

When you go to your stained glass supplier, do not bring small children. There is too big of a risk of being cut by glass and being exposed to toxic fumes, dust and lead. Most stained glass warehouses post signs requesting that small children do not go into areas where the stained glass is stored. Your local retail stained glass dealer would appreciate not having the stress of having a “bull in a China shop.”

When carrying sheets of stained glass, wear gloves that help you have a good grip on the glass. The gloves should protect your hands from cuts from the razor sharp edges of the stained glass. Grip the glass on each side. Carrying it with one hand on top and one on bottom creates a hazard that the glass could snap in two. If you grip from each side and the sheet of stained glass breaks, you have a better chance of letting the glass slip away from you without being cut.

When scoring and breaking stained glass at your workbench, wear protective eyewear and gloves. Be careful not to use your hand to swipe glass shards out of your way. Keep a bench brush and dust pan handy so that you can frequently brush off your workbench. This will reduce accidents and also keep a smooth surface to work on. The tiniest glass shard under a piece of stained glass that you are scoring can cause the piece you are working on to have an unwanted break.

Never use a glass grinder without protecting your eyes. Glass particles can fly up into your eyes and cause terrible pain and may permanently damage your eyes. Most glass grinders are equipped with face shields or face shields can be purchased separately.

I trust that what you’ve read so far has been informative. The following section should go a long way toward clearing up any uncertainty that may remain.

While grinding your stained glass, wear goggles that shield your eyes from all sides to prevent glass particles from getting in your eyes from underneath since the grinder is below eye level. It would also be a good idea to wear a paper mask to prevent breathing in the glass particles and dust that could be harmful to your sinuses and lungs.

When leading the stained glass pieces, wear gloves to protect you from exposure to lead poisoning. If you have cuts on your hands, cover them with band-aids. Pay careful attention to your hot soldering iron. Don’t look away and reach for your iron. You might grasp the wrong end of the iron . . . the end that is several hundred degrees hot!

Make sure that your area is well ventilated when you are soldering. Fumes from solder and flux contain harmful lead and acid. Solder scraps should be kept in a special container for taking to a recycler.

Sometimes new stained glass crafters don’t have a workshop and think they can begin by working at their kitchen table or counter. That is a definite risk of exposing you and your family to lead poisoning, chemical contamination, and hazards from the shards of stained glass. It would be better to set up a space in your garage or an unused room. Some stained glass shops will allow you to rent bench time.

Common sense and a clean stained glass workshop will help keep you safe and add to your enjoyment of the art of stained glass.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this URL Shortening Service, working exactly like TinyURL.com!

Painting Stained Glass – Not as Mysterious as it Seems

Sunday, April 19th, 2009

Have you ever wondered if what you know about Stained Glass is accurate? Consider the following paragraphs and compare what you know to the latest info on Stained Glass.

You may have mastered stained glass construction, but stained glass painting seems like a mystery and looks difficult. Most stained glass crafters know little about the process and the materials needed for painting stained glass; but it should be just another step in the whole process of creating beautiful stained glass windows.

Some people have a misconception that stained glass is clear glass that has been painted to a desired color. Actually, stained glass is colored while it is still in its molten form by adding metal oxides. Painted stained glass is already colored and has had a design painted on it.

Painting on stained glass is done to add humanistic details of the face, hands, feet, or shading of the body and hair. Painting reduces the amount of cutting and leading of many tiny pieces of stained glass. Painting enhances the beauty, textures, and color that are already in the stained glass.

You don’t have to be a talented “artist” in order to paint on stained glass windows; although, a little drawing experience and some knowledge of perspective and the human anatomy can be helpful. If you can find classes on stained glass painting, it always helps to learn from someone who has already learned what works and doesn’t work. If you cannot find classes, look for information online, on related online forums and in instructional books at craft stores, stained glass shops, or in your local library.

You can spend as little or as much as you want on stained glass painting tools and supplies. You can get started for as little as $20 to $100. You can save money by making some of your own stained glass painting equipment. Suppliers for stained glass paints and tools can be found by searching on the internet and at craft and supply stores. Be careful of the paints you choose because the paints for stained glass painting are specific.

Truthfully, the only difference between you and Stained Glass experts is time. If you’ll invest a little more time in reading, you’ll be that much nearer to expert status when it comes to Stained Glass.

Stained glass paint is a high-fired permanent paint which actually has glass (called the vehicle) in it. Stained glass paint also contains lead and has coloring agents like sand, alumina, clay, red or white lead oxide, boric acid, potassium and sodium. The lead in the stained glass paint refracts light. The matt (paint) can be applied, taken out in the tracing, fired, and then applied again, depending on the lighting, detail, and textures you want to achieve in your stained glass painting.

A few good brushes, spatulas, a small easel with a thick-plated glass surface, a light box and an inexpensive small, electric kiln would be a good start on supplies needed to do stained glass painting. In order to save money, you could build your own easel and light box and purchase a used kiln from ads in stained glass magazines or online. You can also make your own mahl sticks and bridges which are wooden supports for your hand and arm for helping with paint stroke technique.

Your work area does not have to be large. It could be an area set aside in your stained glass workshop with a good source of natural light from a window. You need plenty of storage including a palette box for storing the color palettes you make.

You will need squares and rectangles of scrap clear glass, ground and rounded on the edges to prevent cutting yourself. These scraps will be for practicing your stained glass painting and tracing technique.

Armed with the knowledge you gain from sources and practice, you will find that there really is no mystery to stained glass painting.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson (Click on the link to learn more about me)

A Brief History of Stained Glass

Saturday, April 18th, 2009

Do you ever feel like you know just enough about Stained Glass to be dangerous? Let’s see if we can fill in some of the gaps with the latest info from Stained Glass experts.

Accounts vary on the earliest use of stained glass mainly because it was invented before recorded history. Some historians claim it was first used as a domestic luxury in the homes of wealthy Romans in the first century. Stained glass eventually gained recognition as an art form sometime in the fourth century as Christians began to worship openly and built elaborate churches to celebrate their religion. Other historians point to evidence in ancient ruins that implicate the use of stained glass in pagan traditions and decor. While we may never know the exact origin of the medium of stained glass it is clear that the spread of Christianity is directly related to the expansion of stained glass across the globe.

The twelfth century began what is known as the Gothic Era and stained glass windows took center stage in elaborate and monumental cathedral designs. Beginning with the innovative designs on the St. Denis, stained glass windows were used to bring light, both literally and metaphorically, into cathedrals to enhance the worship experience. Most of the stained glass from the St. Denis Cathedral was destroyed during the French Revolution but a few select fragments and even some entire windows can be found on display in varying locations throughout Europe.

The bold lines and strong figures of Gothic style stained glass were eventually phased out as Renaissance artisans leaned toward greater detail, more delicate coloring and increased realism. Stained glass windows evolved into something more like a painting on glass than an architectural element and some of the notable elements such as lead lines disappeared. Although there were numerous pieces created and even some masterpieces, due to the difficulties in expressing the great detail of requisite to the Renaissance era, true stained glass became somewhat of a lost art.

It’s really a good idea to probe a little deeper into the subject of Stained Glass. What you learn may give you the confidence you need to venture into new areas.

Stained glass had been primarily used by the Catholic Church and much of the precious art form was destroyed during the 1600′s by order of King Henry VIII after his break with the Church. Not only were cherished stained glass windows recklessly destroyed, but many of the glass making facilities were ruined as well. Religious unrest was not the only factor in the decline of stained glass. During the Baroque period the fashion leaned toward more intricately detailed interiors and elaborate wall painting which necessitated the use of clear glass in the architecture. Many of the remaining stained glass windows were left unmaintained and allowed to decay during this period and very few new stained glass windows were created.

During the late seventeenth century the hearts and imaginations of the people returned once again to the Gothic style of architecture. This revival was apparently motivated by the need to escape the harsh realities of “modern” life including the daily grind of factories. With the return of Gothic architecture emerged a newfound interest in stained glass. Artists initially continued to use the technique of painting on glass, but eventually realized the superiority of the old pot metal glasses used in medieval times. Since the old techniques had not been used for such a long time, the technique used for making the lead lines had been lost and the artisans of the period floundered when trying to recreate the dynamics of the Gothic stained glass. This coupled with a reluctance to give up the newer more detailed “modern” depictions of scenes and figures lead to windows with an interesting design with the old architecture and an unusual blend of the old and new stained glass styles.

During the nineteenth century, artisans La Farge and Tiffany created new variations of opalescent stained glass. La Farge tended towards architecture and window designs with a small private studio, while Tiffany boasted a larger studio that branched out into other areas, like the Tiffany Lamp which has become a household name. Today’s stained glass artists are bound by no particular style or religious themes. Much of the work they do involves restoration, but can also be seen in both small and large decorative touches in homes of people from almost any economic background. New and innovative techniques are constantly being discovered and stained glass continues to add interest to our lives.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson (Click on the link to learn more about me)

Stained Glass Copper Foil Technique

Saturday, April 18th, 2009

Copper foil is a stained glass leading technique that has a more delicate or intricate look to it than the lead came technique. Louis C. Tiffany created the copper foil technique in the early 1900′s. Tiffany didn’t have the adhesive-backed copper foil that we have today. When he built his copper foil stained glass projects, he painstakingly cut the copper strips and applied wax to them to secure it to the stained glass.

Copper foil is often used for decorative glass boxes, stained glass lamps, and other stained glass projects with intricate curves. The copper foil is flexible and when the solder bead is applied correctly, it is strong enough for just about any stained glass project.

Deciding whether to use copper foil or lead came on a project is mostly a personal choice; yet, some areas may have building restrictions or codes that you might want to check. Some people believe that the copper foil method of stained glass construction is not strong enough for large stained glass windows.

There are methods of reinforcing stained glass windows whether they are constructed by the copper foil method or the came method. Rebar is used to reinforce large stained glass windows. There is a copper flat wire called “Strong Line” that is also used as reinforcement by placing it between the pieces of stained glass before soldering.

The copper color of Tiffany’s thin strips of copper for his stained glass window construction would have shown in, for instance, clear glass. Today’s copper foil comes in various backing colors like copper, black, silver and brass. This gives the stained glass artisan choices of backing that will show up less through clear glass; and for instance, if you use silver backing on white stained glass, there will not be a line of shadow on the white stained glass near the solder lines.

You can see that there’s practical value in learning more about Stained Glass. Can you think of ways to apply what’s been covered so far?

Also, if you plan to leave the solder lines silver and not use a patina to color the solder, then silver back will look better wherever there is clear glass. The same works for using a copper patina on the lead; you would want copper backed foil on your stained glass. Black-backed foil would look best on that clear glass if you are using black patina.

Copper foil tape is a “dead soft copper” which, when burnished onto the stained glass, sticks closely to the glass. It comes in various widths with popular sizes being: 1/8″, 3/16″, 1/4″, 7/32″ 3/8″ and 1/2″. Most copper foil tapes are in 36 yard rolls.

When working with larger stained glass projects, 3-dimensional articles or windows, a wider copper foil like 3/8″ or 1/2″ will be stronger. Thicker stained glass requires a wider tape. When you are doing very intricate or delicate stained glass work, you might prefer to use the narrower 3/16″ copper foil tape.

When you wrap stained glass in copper foil tape, be sure that the edges of the glass are ground and then cleaned very well; otherwise, the foil will not stick to the stained glass. Wrapping the glass edges carefully and being sure equal amounts of foil are folded up onto either side of the stained glass will ensure a smooth, even solder line. Be sure to rub or burnish the foil until it is smooth and secure.

Copper foil for stained glass construction is available through wholesale distributors all over the world. A very popular and reliable copper foil is manufactured by Edco Supply Corporation in Brooklyn, New York. Stained glass retail stores, craft stores, and online stores carry copper foil for stained glass.

Now you can understand why there’s a growing interest in Stained Glass. When people start looking for more information about Stained Glass, you’ll be in a position to meet their needs.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson (Click on the link to learn more about me)

Sandblasting Stained Glass

Saturday, April 18th, 2009

When you think about Stained Glass, what do you think of first? Which aspects of Stained Glass are important, which are essential, and which ones can you take or leave? You be the judge.

Stained glass is actually an incorrect name for a type of art encompassing many different ways of decorating glass for windows, mirrors, lamps or other projects. Stained glass may be made from many pieces of colored glass cut into a design and soldered together with lead or copper cames (metal strips), it may be painted, etched, actually stained with various metal oxides or even sandblasted. Sandblasting is a fascinating way to add texture and interest to your stained glass art project. Rather than adding colored, sandblasting gives a unique frosted or abraded look. This can be used as a decorative “frame” for your stained glass project before painting and setting it in the kiln, or you can create the entire design through sandblasting alone.

Sandblasting equipment can be quite expensive, so you will most likely want to borrow or rent the equipment. You may also consider paying a professional to sandblast your prepared design. Be prepared to make several phone calls and be clear about what you would like to have done. You will likely be charged a set fee per square foot of the stained glass project.

There are four basic elements to the sandblasting unit. The sandblasting unit works with an air compressor that acts as the motor of the unit and provides compressed air to the sand mixing unit. This highly pressurized sand is then forced through a soft tube into a sealed compartment where it is forced through a nozzle. You will do the sandblasting through a set of long rubber gloves that extend inside the unit where you can move your stained glass project around and control the nozzle during sandblasting.

If you don’t have accurate details regarding Stained Glass, then you might make a bad choice on the subject. Don’t let that happen: keep reading.

You will want to create your pattern on a special type of removable backed adhesive paper called “transparent resist”. You may also try regular contact paper, but it is not as sturdy or easy to work with for your stained glass project as the resist. Draw your design on the transparent resist paper with a pencil.

Remember that the cut out portions will be the frosted design on your stained glass project. Be create, experiment with different lines and shapes. When you are satisfied with your design you should tape it to your cutting mat and cut it out carefully using a craft or razor knife. Next, gently remove the paper backing and roll the resist or contact paper unto your piece of glass smoothing it out as you go along. Be careful not to leave any air pockets or lifted edges where sand might get into and foil your design.

Follow the manufacturer’s directions for sandblasting (if you are renting the equipment, otherwise drop it off to the studio and wait for the dramatic results). Carefully peal off the transparent resist and viola, a beautiful piece of stained glass art! You are now ready to use stained glass paint and fire the piece in a kiln if that is what your design calls for; otherwise your stained glass project is ready for framing or hanging.

Stained glass artwork is a satisfying hobby that not only provides hours of enjoyment, but also creates attractive accents for your home, or gifts for family or friends that will bring pleasure for many years to come.

This article’s coverage of the information is as complete as it can be today. But you should always leave open the possibility that future research could uncover new facts.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson (Click on the link to learn more about me)


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