The best course of action to take sometimes isn’t clear until you’ve listed and considered your alternatives. The following paragraphs should help clue you in to what the experts think is significant.

Starting the game with a good break is extremely important. Ideally, a good break is one in which the balls scatter and none are left touching another. Initially, one would expect to use a heavy weighted cue for the break. Theoretically, that would make sense, to get the most power for your break. First, one must understand the weights of different cue sticks. The average weight would be 19 oz. Thus making a light cue 18 oz and a heavy cue 20 oz. or more. Past experience has shown me that it really comes down to personal preference. However, many argue that it is all about physics, so let’s take a look at that.

Break cue weight should be based on simple physics. The speed of the cue ball is what matters when breaking. A simple equation to remember is mass times velocity. The mass is referring to the object being propelled. In this case, it would be the cue ball, which weighs 6 oz. The velocity is the way in which we propel the cue. So what we need to be concerned with is how fast we can propel the cue ball with the most control, not so much the power behind it.

You can see that there’s practical value in learning more about Pool Billiards. Can you think of ways to apply what’s been covered so far?

A heavy cue will result in more force creating more momentum. However, a light cue will allow you more acceleration. After taking all this into consideration, they both seem to have their advantages, which once again, leaves it to personal preference. The force behind your shot will not only be determined by the weight of the cue, but by the players’ style and positioning. Regardless of the weight being used, the power comes more from a solid contact on the cue and proper grip and stance.

It would be suggested not to assume the break need to be made with one or the other. Try them both, with slight alterations in your stance and positioning. You will find which is most comfortable and effective. The more you experiment, the more proficient your break will become, whether it’s based on the laws of physics or personal preference. When learning new techniques, always remember to master the basics first. Find your comfortable position and grip when breaking and master that approach before attempting to become a power breaker.

Hopefully the sections above have contributed to your understanding of Pool Billiards. Share your new understanding about Pool Billiards with others. They’ll thank you for it.

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Obviously, one of the major pieces of equipment needed to play pool is the set of balls. Without them, there would be no game! The balls are designed specifically for the game and coincide with the physics involved in overall play. As you read, you will find out how the balls are made, what materials are used, regulation weights and more. You will soon find that it is not just an ordinary orb placed on the table, and that much design and engineering is involved.

The earliest balls were made of wood clay. These were used for years until the use of ivory came into play. Ivory balls were short lived. By the 1800’s, millions of elephants were being slaughtered to obtain the ivory used to make the balls as well as many other items. Only eight balls could be made from one elephant! Seeing this as unfit, a new material was sought after.

You can see that there’s practical value in learning more about Pool Billiards. Can you think of ways to apply what’s been covered so far?

A composition material was then invented, called cellulose nitrate. It was later commercially branded Celluloid, also known as the first industrial plastic to be marketed. Thought to be a great invention for making the balls, the material was soon not accepted as it caused the balls to occasionally explode, making these plastic billiard balls impractical. The invention of this material served many other useful purposes as the use of plastic became more accepted, but as for the pool game, it was unacceptable.

Other compounds were experimented with until the perfect material had been found. Today’s balls are cast from phenolic resin. This material is resistant to chipping and cracking and has become an industry standard. It is the only ball material used today in play by professionals. There are lower grade balls made of polyester, but use of these result in shorter ball and cloth life.

The balls we commonly see today are made of resin and are regulated by weight and color. The standard ball has a weight of 5.5 to 6 oz. with the cue ball at a standard 6 oz. The balls are colored and grouped into solids and stripes and numbered accordingly. Custom balls are available offering an assortment of colors and markings and are often used in trick shooting to add visual appeal.

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A rack is the name given to a frame (usually wood or plastic) used to organize the balls at the beginning of a game. The most common shape of a physical rack is that of a triangle, with the ball pattern of 5-4-3-2-1. Racks are sometimes called simply “triangles” (most often by amateur shooters) based on the predominance of this form. Triangular-shaped racks are used for eight-ball, straight pool, one-pocket, bank pool, snooker and many other games. Although diamond-shaped racks, with an intended pattern of 1-2-3-2-1, are made for the game of nine-ball, the triangular rack is more often employed in nine ball as well.
There is often argument over whether there is a proper way to rack the balls for an 8-ball game. While there is no particular method for the balls to be placed aside from the eight (for an 8-ball game) and nine ball (for nine-ball game), it’s best to follow these simple methods.

When racking for an 8-ball game, set the rack on the table and place the one ball in the top corner. Place two balls beneath the one ball. In eight-ball, fifteen object balls are used. Standardized rules state that:

* The 8 ball must be in the center of the rack (the second ball in the three balls wide row).

* The first ball (traditionally but not mandatorily the 1 ball) must be placed at the apex position (front of the rack and so the center of that ball is directly over the table’s foot spot).

* The two corner balls must be a stripe and a solid. In theory, this pattern allows for a more equal chance of sinking both a solid and a stripe because the two corner balls are the most likely balls to be pocketed on the break.

* All balls other than the 8 ball are placed at random, but in conformance with the preceding corner ball rule.

You may not consider everything you just read to be crucial information about Pool Billiards. But don’t be surprised if you find yourself recalling and using this very information in the next few days.

* The balls should be pressed tightly together without gaps, as this allows the best break possible.

In amateur eight-ball play a racking variant that is often followed is:

* The outer edges of the triangle must be in the pattern of solid, stripe, solid, stripe, etc. (resulting in the two corner balls being either both stripes or both solids).

* Sometimes, the balls must be placed in numeric order from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. This always results in the corner balls of the rack being both stripes (the 11 and 15, respectively).

The game of nine-ball has a totally different system of racking since you are only playing with nine balls. While you may use the same rack that you do in eight-ball, they do sell special racks for nine-ball. The balls are racked in the shape of a diamond. Be sure to place the one ball at the upper point and the nine in the middle. Some players (most often amateurs) place the balls in numeric order but for the 9 ball; from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. However, all balls other than the 1 and 9 may be randomly placed.

Regardless of what variation of the game you are racking for, it is always best to make sure it is a “tight rack”. This refers to the spacing between the balls. Ideally, you would want the least amount of space. Now, be sure to roll the rack so that the 1 ball is exactly in the middle of the pool table “dot” on the billiard (pool) table. Use all eight of your fingers–not your thumbs–and push on the back roll of balls, forcing them tight in the 8-ball rack and making sure that the 1 ball is placed in the middle of the pool table “dot.” This is very important, since it is difficult for your opponent to make a ball on the break if he’s shooting at a “tight rack.”

Now you can be a confident expert on Pool Billiards. OK, maybe not an expert. But you should have something to bring to the table next time you join a discussion on Pool Billiards.

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We all know that a game cannot start without the break. A good break will lead to a good game. There are many factors one needs to consider when breaking the rack. Often a different cue is used specifically for breaking. It’s best not to get too anxious and try to be a power breaker from the get go. Start with a basic break until your game progresses. The most important part of your game will be your break, so be sure you are very comfortable with it. Once you find a position and stance that is comfortable and you break the balls effectively, stay with that technique.

It can be particularly difficult for a beginning pool player to break a racked set of balls. This is a good way to practice and become comfortable with breaking. Start by putting the cue ball on the head spot. (When you get better, you can position the cue ball anywhere next to or behind the head spot to make the break.) After making sure your grip is correct and you have a comfortable stance, aim the cue ball to hit the leading ball of the rack squarely in the front. Do not stop your shot when you make contact with the cue. Follow through with a smooth motion for an extra 6-18 inches. Practicing this now will help you later as you add speed and power to your break. Always try to hit the cue ball as hard as you can without your cue slipping off to one side or off the ball completely. A foul on a break is a very embarrassing way to start.

Once you begin to move beyond basic background information, you begin to realize that there’s more to Pool Billiards than you may have first thought.

You will find that once you begin to gain confidence in your break, you will shoot harder and perform better breaks. Ideally, a good break is one in which no balls are left touching another ball. The perfect break, when playing eight ball, would be to sink the eight ball off the break shot, thus gaining an immediate win! Though this situation arises rarely, it has been achieved and can be quite a thrill the first time it is accomplished.

The break is probably the most important shot of the game. It will set the playing field for all the shots to follow. Spend time on your breaking techniques and styles. Once you are comfortable breaking with the cue on the head spot, move the cue around to different positions. Moving the cue and striking the rack from different angles will have a different effect on the break. Many players have mastered their break so that they sink at least two balls every time they break. It will take time and patience, but this is a shot you must master if you ever want to become a decent player. Often, players place the cue ball in the same position on the table when breaking. After trial and error and many hours of practice, you will find your own “hot spot” and will have an effective break almost every time.

Now might be a good time to write down the main points covered above. The act of putting it down on paper will help you remember what’s important about Pool Billiards.

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In general, it is difficult to tell if you would like a cue stick just by reading about it. Even the terms that different people use to describe these characteristics (hard, soft, harsh, stiff, forgiving, well-balanced, etc.) are subjective and difficult to quantify. Some of the important things can be quantified (length, weight, balance point, shaft taper, shaft diameter, squirt), but they’re not the whole story. And if you are a beginner, or seriously working on your game for the first time, you can expect your own preferences to change as your game matures.

As a beginning billiards player, most of you might only be using cue sticks provided by the billiards place where you play. However, if you want to really improve your game you need to have your own cue so you won’t have the problem of having to adjust to the length of the cue or the weight of the cue or the diameter of the cue tip. It is important to take note (while you still don’t have a cue stick) the type of cue that you feel most comfortable with. Experiment with different cue sticks. Examine the weight, the length and the diameter of the tip. After you’ve decided on what is most comfortable to you then you are ready to buy one.

If you find yourself confused by what you’ve read to this point, don’t despair. Everything should be crystal clear by the time you finish.

There are some points to consider when shopping for your cue. First, make sure that the cue stick is straight and not crooked. Although most of the production cues are not crooked, it’s always good to check just in case. You can do this by rolling the cue stick on a flat surface, if it is crooked then you will notice it right away. Another way of looking at the stick is to look at the butt end of the cue while pointing the other end downwards then roll it a few times and you should be able to notice if it is crooked or not. Second, the weight of the cue stick. Typically, a cue stick weighs between 18 to 21 ounzes. Find out what weight is comfortable for you and stick with it. Third, the length of the cue stick should be dependent the length of your arm. Longer arms, longer stick. The length of production cues typically starts at 57 inches.

If you would like to customize it a bit, getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to your price. You can go further and add on leather grips and some decorations. Rule of thumb is that if you pay more than $100 for a cue stick, you are paying for brand and ornamentation, not so much quality. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that’s more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line, made there, is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else. Seek good construction over great looks. Be sure to compare the cue sticks before choosing the one that catches your eye. Feel comfortable with the weight and the length. You will be using this stick for years to come, so be sure your investment is just right for your style of playing.

When word gets around about your command of Pool Billiards facts, others who need to know about Pool Billiards will start to actively seek you out.

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First of all, take caution when using this term. A push-out is very different from a push-shot. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the terms and make sure you are referring to the correct thing. A push shot refers to a type of foul committed during play, where as a push out is a technique used during the game.

At pool, a push shot involves a very special kind of stroke and is played when the cue ball is frozen to the object ball. This stroke is a foul. (At pool it is legal to shoot towards a ball the cue ball is frozen to, assuming no other foul, and with a normal stroke.) In a push shot, the tip is brought slowly, slowly, very slowly up to the cue ball until it is just touching or about to touch, and then the tip is accelerated for the shot.

There are two examples of when a push-shot is used. The first is when a ball is frozen to the rail close to a corner pocket. The cue ball is frozen to the object ball and straight out from the rail. The shot is straight towards the object ball, with the tip placed on the equator of the cue ball with lots of side away from the pocket. Once very gentle contact of tip-to-ball is made the tip is gradually pushed forward and the object ball sort of slips out from behind the cue ball and goes straight into the near pocket.

Truthfully, the only difference between you and Pool Billiards experts is time. If you’ll invest a little more time in reading, you’ll be that much nearer to expert status when it comes to Pool Billiards.

The second example is when the cue ball is on the foot spot, and an object ball is frozen as if it had been spotted; both are on the foot string. A desirable object ball is in the jaws of one of the foot pockets. A legal way to pocket the hung ball is to point the cue stick at a point on the foot rail half way between the center of the rail and the target pocket, and shoot a normal center ball stroke. An illegal push shot is to elevate the butt of the stick to about 45 degrees, address the cue ball for extreme follow, and shoot a gradual push shot. In this case the cue ball will nearly ignore the object ball, and go close to the line of aim, rather than the double “angle” of the first (legal) method.

So as not to get too confused, try to keep in mind that a “push out” ismost commonly used when playing nine-ball. The player who shoots the shot immediately after a legal break may play a push out in an attempt to move the cue ball into a better position for the option that follows. On a push out, the cue ball is not required to contact any object ball nor any rail, but all other foul rules still apply. The player must announce the intention of playing a push out before the shot, or the shot is considered to be a normal shot. Any ball pocketed on a push out does not count and remains pocketed except the 9-ball. Following a legal push out, the incoming player is permitted to shoot from that position or to pass the shot back to the player who pushed out. A push out is not considered to be a foul as long as no rule is violated.

If you’ve picked some pointers about Pool Billiards that you can put into action, then by all means, do so. You won’t really be able to gain any benefits from your new knowledge if you don’t use it.

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This interesting article addresses some of the key issues regarding Pool Billiards. A careful reading of this material could make a big difference in how you think about Pool Billiards.

There are a few different variations of the game, each with their own rules. It’s the players preference as to which they prefer. It is suggested however, that every player be familiar with at least the three most common variations, being Nine-Ball, Eight-Ball and Cut Throat.

We’ll begin by summarizing the common Eight-ball game that most of us know. Many people refer to it as stripes and solids. Beware of your terminology though. If you go out and play with more accomplished players, you will find the correct terms would be high and low, not stripes and solids. The rules will vary depending which skill level you are playing at. To keep it simple, all balls are racked with the eight ball in the center. Upon breaking, the ball that goes in first will be your ball. Play is rotated when a shot is missed or a foul committed. The main object… to sink all your balls and the eight ball before your opponent. Always remember the eight ball is your last ball to go in! As mentioned, there are many rules people play by, so be sure to specify them before beginning a game and make sure all players are clear and understand them.

The next variation is Nine-ball. In this game, the balls used are 1 through 9 and are racked as a diamond in order of number, with the nine ball in the center. The idea is to sink the balls in order from lowest number to highest, starting with the one ball . Any ball that goes in counts as long as the lowest numbered ball on the table is hit first. For example, if the lowest ball on the table is the four ball. You can either sink that ball or use that ball for a combination shot to sink another ball. Just always make sure that the ball you hit first is the lowest on the table. If you fail to hit the lowest ball first, it is a foul and the other player will have cue in hand to place and begin his/her turn. The winner is the player who makes the nine on a legal shot.

The third common variation is cut-throat. This is a common three player game, better socially than as a test of skill. Each player takes five balls, 1-5, 6-10, and 11-15, and the last player with a ball on the table wins, so the goal is to sink your opponents’ balls. There are several variations. The penalty for a foul is to bring one of each of the other players’ balls back onto the table. Sometimes this game is played with 3 different colored sets of balls to make it easier to keep track of who has what.

See how much you can learn about Pool Billiards when you take a little time to read a well-researched article? Don’t miss out on the rest of this great information.

There are many ways to play pool, all with their own guidelines and rules. Find the style of your play first, then choose your game. The more you familiarize yourself with the different variations, the better player you will become.

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Many times, when people hear about billiards and pool, another form of the game is often mentioned. This game, called Snookers, varies from the American form of pool. Though it is in the same group as the other cue sports, it actually stands in a league of it’s own. Aside from learning the different variations of pool play, some people enjoy taking that learning experience a step further and trying this well known game.

In Snooker, the main object of the game is to score more points than your opponent. We are not used to the point system when playing billiards or pool, instead, we are more concerned with the ball count left on the table and the final sinking of the winning ball. Snooker is an entirely different game, with different rules, a different table, and, as mentioned, a different objective.

Snooker is generally played on a table much larger than a pool table, measuring 6′ by 12′. There are also smaller tables, measuring 5′ by 10′, in which the game can be played. The larger size table is the most commonly used. The Snooker table have cushions that are more narrow than those of a traditional pool table, and they curve into the pocket openings.

Think about what you’ve read so far. Does it reinforce what you already know about Pool Billiards? Or was there something completely new? What about the remaining paragraphs?

Like pool, Snooker is also a two player game. As mentioned above, the object is to outscore your opponent. This is done by sinking the balls with a higher point value. Snooker is played with 22 balls, as opposed to the 15 we are used to. These balls have no numbers, so the value of the balls are based solely on color. There are 15 balls that are solid red, six balls of different colors, and the cue ball. The point values for the balls is as follows. Red balls are worth one point, yellow is worth 2, green is worth 3, brown is worth 4, blue is worth 5, pink is worth 6, and black is worth 7.

The rack is much different and the overall rules can take a while to get used to. There are many sites available online that will describe these things in great detail. The purpose here was to give an over-view of the game. A more in depth description of the game and the rules can be found at www.billiardworld.com/snooker.html

Don’t limit yourself by refusing to learn the details about Pool Billiards. The more you know, the easier it will be to focus on what’s important.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest venture: GVO to claim your $1 trial membership!

A rack is the name given to a frame (usually wood or plastic) used to organize the balls at the beginning of a game. The most common shape of a physical rack is that of a triangle, with the ball pattern of 5-4-3-2-1. Racks are sometimes called simply “triangles” (most often by amateur shooters) based on the predominance of this form. Triangular-shaped racks are used for eight-ball, straight pool, one-pocket, bank pool, snooker and many other games. Although diamond-shaped racks, with an intended pattern of 1-2-3-2-1, are made for the game of nine-ball, the triangular rack is more often employed in nine ball as well.
There is often argument over whether there is a proper way to rack the balls for an 8-ball game. While there is no particular method for the balls to be placed aside from the eight (for an 8-ball game) and nine ball (for nine-ball game), it’s best to follow these simple methods.

When racking for an 8-ball game, set the rack on the table and place the one ball in the top corner. Place two balls beneath the one ball. In eight-ball, fifteen object balls are used. Standardized rules state that:

* The 8 ball must be in the center of the rack (the second ball in the three balls wide row).

* The first ball (traditionally but not mandatorily the 1 ball) must be placed at the apex position (front of the rack and so the center of that ball is directly over the table’s foot spot).

* The two corner balls must be a stripe and a solid. In theory, this pattern allows for a more equal chance of sinking both a solid and a stripe because the two corner balls are the most likely balls to be pocketed on the break.

* All balls other than the 8 ball are placed at random, but in conformance with the preceding corner ball rule.

How can you put a limit on learning more? The next section may contain that one little bit of wisdom that changes everything.

* The balls should be pressed tightly together without gaps, as this allows the best break possible.

In amateur eight-ball play a racking variant that is often followed is:

* The outer edges of the triangle must be in the pattern of solid, stripe, solid, stripe, etc. (resulting in the two corner balls being either both stripes or both solids).

* Sometimes, the balls must be placed in numeric order from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. This always results in the corner balls of the rack being both stripes (the 11 and 15, respectively).

The game of nine-ball has a totally different system of racking since you are only playing with nine balls. While you may use the same rack that you do in eight-ball, they do sell special racks for nine-ball. The balls are racked in the shape of a diamond. Be sure to place the one ball at the upper point and the nine in the middle. Some players (most often amateurs) place the balls in numeric order but for the 9 ball; from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. However, all balls other than the 1 and 9 may be randomly placed.

Regardless of what variation of the game you are racking for, it is always best to make sure it is a “tight rack”. This refers to the spacing between the balls. Ideally, you would want the least amount of space. Now, be sure to roll the rack so that the 1 ball is exactly in the middle of the pool table “dot” on the billiard (pool) table. Use all eight of your fingers–not your thumbs–and push on the back roll of balls, forcing them tight in the 8-ball rack and making sure that the 1 ball is placed in the middle of the pool table “dot.” This is very important, since it is difficult for your opponent to make a ball on the break if he’s shooting at a “tight rack.”

There’s a lot to understand about Pool Billiards. We were able to provide you with some of the facts above, but there is still plenty more to write about in subsequent articles.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Google Traffic System and make sure to visit my bonus site!

The most important technique learned and the one that should be mastered first is the grip. The casual player has a different grip than that of a professional player, but in either case, if your game is to progress, you must master your grip. It should be comfortable, relaxed, and remain fairly consistent throughout the range of the stroke. A relaxed grip is usually best since too tight of a grip can tense up muscles in the arm that can cause your stroke to perform erratically. Likewise, too loose and you could lose control.

One way is to play with an all finger grip where all five fingers remain in constant contact with the butt all the way through the stroke and never alter except for perhaps a slight squeeze on contact with the cue ball. This method requires the cue arm to be perfectly vertical at address of the cue ball or the cue will lift on the backswing causing a scooping motion. This is the most common way to grip a cue stick among beginners and casual players, and allows the most control. Do not put your thumb on top of the cue, because this will lock up your wrist, and it’s very important for your wrist to stay relaxed.

Most pros use a different grip, only the thumb and first finger remain constant , the others flex open on the backstroke and close on the forward stroke. This has the effect of tracking the cue and keeping it on line, also greatly increasing cue ball control and cue power. On the final backswing the little finger practically comes off the cue altogether, this allows the cue to remain flat , on the follow through the fingers all close and return to the original position.

No matter what style grip you use, it is important to keep your grip loose and relaxed. This will allow you to follow through on your stroke. A proper grip allows you control and accurate shots. Bad grips will limit your potential for improvement. At all times, your cue should feel well balanced in your hand. For normal shots, your hand should be in the center of the wrap. For shots that require more “touch” and accuracy, try moving your hand forward on the wrap, shortening the length between your bridge hand and the ferrule. For shots that require more power, try moving your hand back on the wrap, lengthening the distance between your bridge hand and the ferrule. Always remember to stay down and follow through on your shots.

Now that we’ve covered those aspects of Pool Billiards, let’s turn to some of the other factors that need to be considered.

The key to determine your grip is to find the balance point of the cue. To find the balance point, take your index finger and balance the cue stick on it so that it teeters on its own. Once it is balanced, take a mental note of the point on the cue stick where your finger was holding it and use this as your balance point or reference point. In general, but depending on how tall you are, you should grip the cue at least six inches back from the balance point towards butt end of the cue stick. Shorter players should place their grip hand slightly closer to the balance point we found earlier, while taller players should put their gripping hand a greater distance away from the balance point. This process will eliminate the chance of developing a bad grip and will start your beginners’ career off on the right foot.

Now you can be a confident expert on Pool Billiards. OK, maybe not an expert. But you should have something to bring to the table next time you join a discussion on Pool Billiards.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Google Traffic System and make sure to visit my bonus site!