Archive for the ‘Pool Billiards’ Category

Some Variations Of Pool

Sunday, March 7th, 2010

This interesting article addresses some of the key issues regarding Pool Billiards. A careful reading of this material could make a big difference in how you think about Pool Billiards.

There are a few different variations of the game, each with their own rules. It’s the players preference as to which they prefer. It is suggested however, that every player be familiar with at least the three most common variations, being Nine-Ball, Eight-Ball and Cut Throat.

We’ll begin by summarizing the common Eight-ball game that most of us know. Many people refer to it as stripes and solids. Beware of your terminology though. If you go out and play with more accomplished players, you will find the correct terms would be high and low, not stripes and solids. The rules will vary depending which skill level you are playing at. To keep it simple, all balls are racked with the eight ball in the center. Upon breaking, the ball that goes in first will be your ball. Play is rotated when a shot is missed or a foul committed. The main object… to sink all your balls and the eight ball before your opponent. Always remember the eight ball is your last ball to go in! As mentioned, there are many rules people play by, so be sure to specify them before beginning a game and make sure all players are clear and understand them.

The next variation is Nine-ball. In this game, the balls used are 1 through 9 and are racked as a diamond in order of number, with the nine ball in the center. The idea is to sink the balls in order from lowest number to highest, starting with the one ball . Any ball that goes in counts as long as the lowest numbered ball on the table is hit first. For example, if the lowest ball on the table is the four ball. You can either sink that ball or use that ball for a combination shot to sink another ball. Just always make sure that the ball you hit first is the lowest on the table. If you fail to hit the lowest ball first, it is a foul and the other player will have cue in hand to place and begin his/her turn. The winner is the player who makes the nine on a legal shot.

The third common variation is cut-throat. This is a common three player game, better socially than as a test of skill. Each player takes five balls, 1-5, 6-10, and 11-15, and the last player with a ball on the table wins, so the goal is to sink your opponents’ balls. There are several variations. The penalty for a foul is to bring one of each of the other players’ balls back onto the table. Sometimes this game is played with 3 different colored sets of balls to make it easier to keep track of who has what.

See how much you can learn about Pool Billiards when you take a little time to read a well-researched article? Don’t miss out on the rest of this great information.

There are many ways to play pool, all with their own guidelines and rules. Find the style of your play first, then choose your game. The more you familiarize yourself with the different variations, the better player you will become.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest venture: GVO to claim your $1 trial membership!

A Brief Intro To Snooker

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010

Many times, when people hear about billiards and pool, another form of the game is often mentioned. This game, called Snookers, varies from the American form of pool. Though it is in the same group as the other cue sports, it actually stands in a league of it’s own. Aside from learning the different variations of pool play, some people enjoy taking that learning experience a step further and trying this well known game.

In Snooker, the main object of the game is to score more points than your opponent. We are not used to the point system when playing billiards or pool, instead, we are more concerned with the ball count left on the table and the final sinking of the winning ball. Snooker is an entirely different game, with different rules, a different table, and, as mentioned, a different objective.

Snooker is generally played on a table much larger than a pool table, measuring 6′ by 12′. There are also smaller tables, measuring 5′ by 10′, in which the game can be played. The larger size table is the most commonly used. The Snooker table have cushions that are more narrow than those of a traditional pool table, and they curve into the pocket openings.

Think about what you’ve read so far. Does it reinforce what you already know about Pool Billiards? Or was there something completely new? What about the remaining paragraphs?

Like pool, Snooker is also a two player game. As mentioned above, the object is to outscore your opponent. This is done by sinking the balls with a higher point value. Snooker is played with 22 balls, as opposed to the 15 we are used to. These balls have no numbers, so the value of the balls are based solely on color. There are 15 balls that are solid red, six balls of different colors, and the cue ball. The point values for the balls is as follows. Red balls are worth one point, yellow is worth 2, green is worth 3, brown is worth 4, blue is worth 5, pink is worth 6, and black is worth 7.

The rack is much different and the overall rules can take a while to get used to. There are many sites available online that will describe these things in great detail. The purpose here was to give an over-view of the game. A more in depth description of the game and the rules can be found at www.billiardworld.com/snooker.html

Don’t limit yourself by refusing to learn the details about Pool Billiards. The more you know, the easier it will be to focus on what’s important.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest venture: GVO to claim your $1 trial membership!

How To Rack For 8 And 9 Ball

Saturday, January 23rd, 2010

A rack is the name given to a frame (usually wood or plastic) used to organize the balls at the beginning of a game. The most common shape of a physical rack is that of a triangle, with the ball pattern of 5-4-3-2-1. Racks are sometimes called simply “triangles” (most often by amateur shooters) based on the predominance of this form. Triangular-shaped racks are used for eight-ball, straight pool, one-pocket, bank pool, snooker and many other games. Although diamond-shaped racks, with an intended pattern of 1-2-3-2-1, are made for the game of nine-ball, the triangular rack is more often employed in nine ball as well.
There is often argument over whether there is a proper way to rack the balls for an 8-ball game. While there is no particular method for the balls to be placed aside from the eight (for an 8-ball game) and nine ball (for nine-ball game), it’s best to follow these simple methods.

When racking for an 8-ball game, set the rack on the table and place the one ball in the top corner. Place two balls beneath the one ball. In eight-ball, fifteen object balls are used. Standardized rules state that:

* The 8 ball must be in the center of the rack (the second ball in the three balls wide row).

* The first ball (traditionally but not mandatorily the 1 ball) must be placed at the apex position (front of the rack and so the center of that ball is directly over the table’s foot spot).

* The two corner balls must be a stripe and a solid. In theory, this pattern allows for a more equal chance of sinking both a solid and a stripe because the two corner balls are the most likely balls to be pocketed on the break.

* All balls other than the 8 ball are placed at random, but in conformance with the preceding corner ball rule.

How can you put a limit on learning more? The next section may contain that one little bit of wisdom that changes everything.

* The balls should be pressed tightly together without gaps, as this allows the best break possible.

In amateur eight-ball play a racking variant that is often followed is:

* The outer edges of the triangle must be in the pattern of solid, stripe, solid, stripe, etc. (resulting in the two corner balls being either both stripes or both solids).

* Sometimes, the balls must be placed in numeric order from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. This always results in the corner balls of the rack being both stripes (the 11 and 15, respectively).

The game of nine-ball has a totally different system of racking since you are only playing with nine balls. While you may use the same rack that you do in eight-ball, they do sell special racks for nine-ball. The balls are racked in the shape of a diamond. Be sure to place the one ball at the upper point and the nine in the middle. Some players (most often amateurs) place the balls in numeric order but for the 9 ball; from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. However, all balls other than the 1 and 9 may be randomly placed.

Regardless of what variation of the game you are racking for, it is always best to make sure it is a “tight rack”. This refers to the spacing between the balls. Ideally, you would want the least amount of space. Now, be sure to roll the rack so that the 1 ball is exactly in the middle of the pool table “dot” on the billiard (pool) table. Use all eight of your fingers–not your thumbs–and push on the back roll of balls, forcing them tight in the 8-ball rack and making sure that the 1 ball is placed in the middle of the pool table “dot.” This is very important, since it is difficult for your opponent to make a ball on the break if he’s shooting at a “tight rack.”

There’s a lot to understand about Pool Billiards. We were able to provide you with some of the facts above, but there is still plenty more to write about in subsequent articles.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Google Traffic System and make sure to visit my bonus site!

Master Your Cue Grip

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

The most important technique learned and the one that should be mastered first is the grip. The casual player has a different grip than that of a professional player, but in either case, if your game is to progress, you must master your grip. It should be comfortable, relaxed, and remain fairly consistent throughout the range of the stroke. A relaxed grip is usually best since too tight of a grip can tense up muscles in the arm that can cause your stroke to perform erratically. Likewise, too loose and you could lose control.

One way is to play with an all finger grip where all five fingers remain in constant contact with the butt all the way through the stroke and never alter except for perhaps a slight squeeze on contact with the cue ball. This method requires the cue arm to be perfectly vertical at address of the cue ball or the cue will lift on the backswing causing a scooping motion. This is the most common way to grip a cue stick among beginners and casual players, and allows the most control. Do not put your thumb on top of the cue, because this will lock up your wrist, and it’s very important for your wrist to stay relaxed.

Most pros use a different grip, only the thumb and first finger remain constant , the others flex open on the backstroke and close on the forward stroke. This has the effect of tracking the cue and keeping it on line, also greatly increasing cue ball control and cue power. On the final backswing the little finger practically comes off the cue altogether, this allows the cue to remain flat , on the follow through the fingers all close and return to the original position.

No matter what style grip you use, it is important to keep your grip loose and relaxed. This will allow you to follow through on your stroke. A proper grip allows you control and accurate shots. Bad grips will limit your potential for improvement. At all times, your cue should feel well balanced in your hand. For normal shots, your hand should be in the center of the wrap. For shots that require more “touch” and accuracy, try moving your hand forward on the wrap, shortening the length between your bridge hand and the ferrule. For shots that require more power, try moving your hand back on the wrap, lengthening the distance between your bridge hand and the ferrule. Always remember to stay down and follow through on your shots.

Now that we’ve covered those aspects of Pool Billiards, let’s turn to some of the other factors that need to be considered.

The key to determine your grip is to find the balance point of the cue. To find the balance point, take your index finger and balance the cue stick on it so that it teeters on its own. Once it is balanced, take a mental note of the point on the cue stick where your finger was holding it and use this as your balance point or reference point. In general, but depending on how tall you are, you should grip the cue at least six inches back from the balance point towards butt end of the cue stick. Shorter players should place their grip hand slightly closer to the balance point we found earlier, while taller players should put their gripping hand a greater distance away from the balance point. This process will eliminate the chance of developing a bad grip and will start your beginners’ career off on the right foot.

Now you can be a confident expert on Pool Billiards. OK, maybe not an expert. But you should have something to bring to the table next time you join a discussion on Pool Billiards.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Google Traffic System and make sure to visit my bonus site!

Break Cues-Light Or Heavy?

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

When most people think of Pool Billiards, what comes to mind is usually basic information that’s not particularly interesting or beneficial. But there’s a lot more to Pool Billiards than just the basics.

Starting the game with a good break is extremely important. Ideally, a good break is one in which the balls scatter and none are left touching another. Initially, one would expect to use a heavy weighted cue for the break. Theoretically, that would make sense, to get the most power for your break. First, one must understand the weights of different cue sticks. The average weight would be 19 oz. Thus making a light cue 18 oz and a heavy cue 20 oz. or more. Past experience has shown me that it really comes down to personal preference. However, many argue that it is all about physics, so let’s take a look at that.

Break cue weight should be based on simple physics. The speed of the cue ball is what matters when breaking. A simple equation to remember is mass times velocity. The mass is referring to the object being propelled. In this case, it would be the cue ball, which weighs 6 oz. The velocity is the way in which we propel the cue. So what we need to be concerned with is how fast we can propel the cue ball with the most control, not so much the power behind it.

You may not consider everything you just read to be crucial information about Pool Billiards. But don’t be surprised if you find yourself recalling and using this very information in the next few days.

A heavy cue will result in more force creating more momentum. However, a light cue will allow you more acceleration. After taking all this into consideration, they both seem to have their advantages, which once again, leaves it to personal preference. The force behind your shot will not only be determined by the weight of the cue, but by the players’ style and positioning. Regardless of the weight being used, the power comes more from a solid contact on the cue and proper grip and stance.

It would be suggested not to assume the break need to be made with one or the other. Try them both, with slight alterations in your stance and positioning. You will find which is most comfortable and effective. The more you experiment, the more proficient your break will become, whether it’s based on the laws of physics or personal preference. When learning new techniques, always remember to master the basics first. Find your comfortable position and grip when breaking and master that approach before attempting to become a power breaker.

Now you can be a confident expert on Pool Billiards. OK, maybe not an expert. But you should have something to bring to the table next time you join a discussion on Pool Billiards.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Google Traffic System and make sure to visit my bonus site!

Pool Table Maintentance

Monday, January 18th, 2010

Are you looking for some inside information on Pool Billiards? Here’s an up-to-date report from Pool Billiards experts who should know.

After spending days upon days and dollars upon dollars for your pool table, you should know how to care for it so it will last a life time. Not maintaining the table will affect your overall game and cost you a bundle in needed repairs. Take some small and simple steps to avoid having to pay for repairs on your investment.

If you have a new table, the cloth may interact with the roll of the balls for the break in period. This is completely normal, but to speed up the break-in process, it helps by brushing the cloth as frequently as possible. The table, new or used, should be brushed before and after every game played. Be sure to always brush the cloth in the same direction and never use circular motions. The surface may be vacuumed if necessary, again, always in the same direction. To avoid exposure to humidity, spills and other hazards, it is recommended that you cover the table when not in use.

Once you begin to move beyond basic background information, you begin to realize that there’s more to Pool Billiards than you may have first thought.

Avoid excessive ball build up or storage in the pockets of your table. The balls will wear out the cloth around the pockets if they cannot drop freely inside. Stored balls for lengthy periods may also stretch the pockets depending on what material they are made from. If your table was made with leather used to create the pockets, ball build up will deffinitely affect the shape of the pockets over time. This may not happen so much if the material is weaved or made of mesh, but it is always a good idea not to let the balls build up regardless of the material used.

If your table has a natural wood finish, it should be dusted and cleaned frequently. Your investment may be for entertainment, but it is also a piece of furniture and a possible heirloom. Wood finishes can be restored by using a non-residue forming dusting agent, such as lemon oil. Never use a cleaner that contains ammonia as it can chemically damage the finish. Though it is possible to re-finish the wood if staining occurs, it is best to prevent that as much as possible. Taking general care of the wood on the rails will lengthen the life of the table and reduce the possible cost of repairs in the future. Considering the cost of your investment, it is wise to care for it in a way that will allow you to enjoy it for years to come.

If you have your table stored in a recreation room where food and drinks will be present, try to encourage the use of coasters. Never set a can, glass or bottle on any part of the table. The moisture will cause damage and will also leave stains. A no food or drink policy is often in place at local pool halls, and they are never allowed near tournament tables. One final thing to remember, do not sit or stand on any part of the table. Aside from possibly injuring yourself, you will affect the table leverage and the balls will not travle as they should. Always keep unnecessary weight off of the table, both during play and not.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Google Traffic System and make sure to visit my bonus site!

How To Rack For 8 And 9 Ball

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

The following article includes pertinent information that may cause you to reconsider what you thought you understood. The most important thing is to study with an open mind and be willing to revise your understanding if necessary.

A rack is the name given to a frame (usually wood or plastic) used to organize the balls at the beginning of a game. The most common shape of a physical rack is that of a triangle, with the ball pattern of 5-4-3-2-1. Racks are sometimes called simply “triangles” (most often by amateur shooters) based on the predominance of this form. Triangular-shaped racks are used for eight-ball, straight pool, one-pocket, bank pool, snooker and many other games. Although diamond-shaped racks, with an intended pattern of 1-2-3-2-1, are made for the game of nine-ball, the triangular rack is more often employed in nine ball as well.
There is often argument over whether there is a proper way to rack the balls for an 8-ball game. While there is no particular method for the balls to be placed aside from the eight (for an 8-ball game) and nine ball (for nine-ball game), it’s best to follow these simple methods.

When racking for an 8-ball game, set the rack on the table and place the one ball in the top corner. Place two balls beneath the one ball. In eight-ball, fifteen object balls are used. Standardized rules state that:

* The 8 ball must be in the center of the rack (the second ball in the three balls wide row).

* The first ball (traditionally but not mandatorily the 1 ball) must be placed at the apex position (front of the rack and so the center of that ball is directly over the table’s foot spot).

* The two corner balls must be a stripe and a solid. In theory, this pattern allows for a more equal chance of sinking both a solid and a stripe because the two corner balls are the most likely balls to be pocketed on the break.

* All balls other than the 8 ball are placed at random, but in conformance with the preceding corner ball rule.

I trust that what you’ve read so far has been informative. The following section should go a long way toward clearing up any uncertainty that may remain.

* The balls should be pressed tightly together without gaps, as this allows the best break possible.

In amateur eight-ball play a racking variant that is often followed is:

* The outer edges of the triangle must be in the pattern of solid, stripe, solid, stripe, etc. (resulting in the two corner balls being either both stripes or both solids).

* Sometimes, the balls must be placed in numeric order from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. This always results in the corner balls of the rack being both stripes (the 11 and 15, respectively).

The game of nine-ball has a totally different system of racking since you are only playing with nine balls. While you may use the same rack that you do in eight-ball, they do sell special racks for nine-ball. The balls are racked in the shape of a diamond. Be sure to place the one ball at the upper point and the nine in the middle. Some players (most often amateurs) place the balls in numeric order but for the 9 ball; from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. However, all balls other than the 1 and 9 may be randomly placed.

Regardless of what variation of the game you are racking for, it is always best to make sure it is a “tight rack”. This refers to the spacing between the balls. Ideally, you would want the least amount of space. Now, be sure to roll the rack so that the 1 ball is exactly in the middle of the pool table “dot” on the billiard (pool) table. Use all eight of your fingers–not your thumbs–and push on the back roll of balls, forcing them tight in the 8-ball rack and making sure that the 1 ball is placed in the middle of the pool table “dot.” This is very important, since it is difficult for your opponent to make a ball on the break if he’s shooting at a “tight rack.”

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Google Traffic System and make sure to visit my bonus site!

How To Choose A Cue Stick

Wednesday, January 6th, 2010

The only way to keep up with the latest about Pool Billiards is to constantly stay on the lookout for new information. If you read everything you find about Pool Billiards, it won’t take long for you to become an influential authority.

In general, it is difficult to tell if you would like a cue stick just by reading about it. Even the terms that different people use to describe these characteristics (hard, soft, harsh, stiff, forgiving, well-balanced, etc.) are subjective and difficult to quantify. Some of the important things can be quantified (length, weight, balance point, shaft taper, shaft diameter, squirt), but they’re not the whole story. And if you are a beginner, or seriously working on your game for the first time, you can expect your own preferences to change as your game matures.

As a beginning billiards player, most of you might only be using cue sticks provided by the billiards place where you play. However, if you want to really improve your game you need to have your own cue so you won’t have the problem of having to adjust to the length of the cue or the weight of the cue or the diameter of the cue tip. It is important to take note (while you still don’t have a cue stick) the type of cue that you feel most comfortable with. Experiment with different cue sticks. Examine the weight, the length and the diameter of the tip. After you’ve decided on what is most comfortable to you then you are ready to buy one.

Those of you not familiar with the latest on Pool Billiards now have at least a basic understanding. But there’s more to come.

There are some points to consider when shopping for your cue. First, make sure that the cue stick is straight and not crooked. Although most of the production cues are not crooked, it’s always good to check just in case. You can do this by rolling the cue stick on a flat surface, if it is crooked then you will notice it right away. Another way of looking at the stick is to look at the butt end of the cue while pointing the other end downwards then roll it a few times and you should be able to notice if it is crooked or not. Second, the weight of the cue stick. Typically, a cue stick weighs between 18 to 21 ounzes. Find out what weight is comfortable for you and stick with it. Third, the length of the cue stick should be dependent the length of your arm. Longer arms, longer stick. The length of production cues typically starts at 57 inches.

If you would like to customize it a bit, getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to your price. You can go further and add on leather grips and some decorations. Rule of thumb is that if you pay more than $100 for a cue stick, you are paying for brand and ornamentation, not so much quality. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that’s more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line, made there, is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else. Seek good construction over great looks. Be sure to compare the cue sticks before choosing the one that catches your eye. Feel comfortable with the weight and the length. You will be using this stick for years to come, so be sure your investment is just right for your style of playing.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Google Traffic System and make sure to visit my bonus site!

A Brief Intro To Snooker

Monday, December 28th, 2009

Have you ever wondered what exactly is up with Pool Billiards? This informative report can give you an insight into everything you’ve ever wanted to know about Pool Billiards.

Many times, when people hear about billiards and pool, another form of the game is often mentioned. This game, called Snookers, varies from the American form of pool. Though it is in the same group as the other cue sports, it actually stands in a league of it’s own. Aside from learning the different variations of pool play, some people enjoy taking that learning experience a step further and trying this well known game.

In Snooker, the main object of the game is to score more points than your opponent. We are not used to the point system when playing billiards or pool, instead, we are more concerned with the ball count left on the table and the final sinking of the winning ball. Snooker is an entirely different game, with different rules, a different table, and, as mentioned, a different objective.

Snooker is generally played on a table much larger than a pool table, measuring 6′ by 12′. There are also smaller tables, measuring 5′ by 10′, in which the game can be played. The larger size table is the most commonly used. The Snooker table have cushions that are more narrow than those of a traditional pool table, and they curve into the pocket openings.

Once you begin to move beyond basic background information, you begin to realize that there’s more to Pool Billiards than you may have first thought.

Like pool, Snooker is also a two player game. As mentioned above, the object is to outscore your opponent. This is done by sinking the balls with a higher point value. Snooker is played with 22 balls, as opposed to the 15 we are used to. These balls have no numbers, so the value of the balls are based solely on color. There are 15 balls that are solid red, six balls of different colors, and the cue ball. The point values for the balls is as follows. Red balls are worth one point, yellow is worth 2, green is worth 3, brown is worth 4, blue is worth 5, pink is worth 6, and black is worth 7.

The rack is much different and the overall rules can take a while to get used to. There are many sites available online that will describe these things in great detail. The purpose here was to give an over-view of the game. A more in depth description of the game and the rules can be found at www.billiardworld.com/snooker.html

Knowing enough about Pool Billiards to make solid, informed choices cuts down on the fear factor. If you apply what you’ve just learned about Pool Billiards, you should have nothing to worry about.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Adsense eBook and make sure to claim your free adsense ebook download!

All About Regulation Pool Balls

Monday, December 21st, 2009

Obviously, one of the major pieces of equipment needed to play pool is the set of balls. Without them, there would be no game! The balls are designed specifically for the game and coincide with the physics involved in overall play. As you read, you will find out how the balls are made, what materials are used, regulation weights and more. You will soon find that it is not just an ordinary orb placed on the table, and that much design and engineering is involved.

The earliest balls were made of wood clay. These were used for years until the use of ivory came into play. Ivory balls were short lived. By the 1800’s, millions of elephants were being slaughtered to obtain the ivory used to make the balls as well as many other items. Only eight balls could be made from one elephant! Seeing this as unfit, a new material was sought after.

How can you put a limit on learning more? The next section may contain that one little bit of wisdom that changes everything.

A composition material was then invented, called cellulose nitrate. It was later commercially branded Celluloid, also known as the first industrial plastic to be marketed. Thought to be a great invention for making the balls, the material was soon not accepted as it caused the balls to occasionally explode, making these plastic billiard balls impractical. The invention of this material served many other useful purposes as the use of plastic became more accepted, but as for the pool game, it was unacceptable.

Other compounds were experimented with until the perfect material had been found. Today’s balls are cast from phenolic resin. This material is resistant to chipping and cracking and has become an industry standard. It is the only ball material used today in play by professionals. There are lower grade balls made of polyester, but use of these result in shorter ball and cloth life.

The balls we commonly see today are made of resin and are regulated by weight and color. The standard ball has a weight of 5.5 to 6 oz. with the cue ball at a standard 6 oz. The balls are colored and grouped into solids and stripes and numbered accordingly. Custom balls are available offering an assortment of colors and markings and are often used in trick shooting to add visual appeal.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest acquisition: Free Adsense eBook and make sure to claim your free adsense ebook download!