Archive for the ‘Pool Billiards’ Category

What Is A Jump Shot?

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

The following paragraphs summarize the work of Pool Billiards experts who are completely familiar with all the aspects of Pool Billiards. Heed their advice to avoid any Pool Billiards surprises.

A jump shot refers to making the cue ball come off the table surface before making contact with another object ball. By placing extreme spin on the ball and elevating the butt of the cue while shooting, you can make the cue ball jump. Beginners often shoot a jump shot by hitting the cue ball very low and miscuing. The most important factor in making a jump shot is the kind of cloth on the table. If it is very high quality, thin cloth, jumping will be very difficult. If it is thicker or maybe rubber-backed, jumping will be fairly easy. It’s best to practice your jump shots with simple straight ahead shots until you get the feel for the table.

On a jump shot, your cue ball jumps at an angle equal to the angle at which it is struck. Another words the higher your cue stick the higher the jump angle. The harder you shoot, the longer the jump. The jump stroke must be shot with a very loose back arm grip. This allows the cue stick to get out of the way of the ball so you don’t “trap” the ball as it’s trying the jump. It is a foul if a player strikes the cue ball below center (“digs under” it) and intentionally causes it to rise off the bed of the table in an effort to clear an obstructing ball. Such jumping action may occasionally occur accidentally, and such “jumps” are not to be considered fouls on their face; they may still be ruled foul strokes, if for example, the ferrule or cue shaft makes contact with the cue ball in the course of the shot.

Unless otherwise stated in rules for a specific game it is legal to cause the cue ball to rise off the bed of the table by elevating the cue stick on the shot, and forcing the cue ball to rebound from the bed of the table. Any miscue when executing a jump shot is a foul.

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Everyone like to be a big shot, and nothing makes you look cooler than executing a proper billiard and pool jump shot technique and pocketing the intended object ball that nobody thought you could get at. Though this may be the case, you should remember to consider and assess all other options and angles for shot options first. If you use the jump shot when you don’t really need to, your opponent and other spectators may regard you as a showboat and may lose existing respect for your game.
Jump shots are not easy to make, and are even harder to control. It will take you a lot of practice, but more so, a lot of patience to master your jump shot. Beginners should start with a jump shot that is not of great height. Get the technique down then try jumping a full ball. To jump a full ball from one ball away you’ll need to elevate to 85 degrees or more. The only way to become proficient at this technique is to develop your own style and perfect it.

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By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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The Masse Technique

Monday, May 17th, 2010

This article explains a few things about Pool Billiards, and if you’re interested, then this is worth reading, because you can never tell what you don’t know.

Masse is a term used to identify a technique in which the cue ball follows a curved path. It is used to make tight turns around interfering balls. Though a difficult shot to master, it can be quite useful in tournament play. The masse is an extremely complicated combination of physics that requires careful observation and lots of practice. This shot is not intended for the amateur player. You can cause severe damage to the surface of the table if the shot is not executed correctly. Tears and rips will occur and you will also damage the tips on your cue stick. It is not a recommended shot, but if you are able to master it, it will come in handy many times over especially for trick shooters, though you will be rolling the dice in the accuracy department.

With a masse shot, the angle of the cue ball path and shot speed play a huge role. If you do not have a good feel for the speed and the effects of table conditions, you will not be very successful with masse shots. To perform this shot, you will raise the butt of your cue so that it is almost perpendicular. Many players sit on the rail as they perform this type of shot. Looking down the shaft to the cue, you will aim your shot. You will be striking the cue ball on an outer surface causing the spin needed to curve around the object. The only way to truly perfect this shot is to try it over and over again. This could prove to be an expensive ordeal as you will be repairing your table quite often.

You can see that there’s practical value in learning more about Pool Billiards. Can you think of ways to apply what’s been covered so far?

It is critical to have a stable bridge and an accurate stroke to be confident with the contact point on the cue ball. The type of cloth can and will have a big impact on masse action. A high-friction cloth can make it difficult to get a big curve because the initial impact with the table cloth can limit the action of the cue stick. Masse shot practice can be abusive to the table cloth, especially if you are still developing your technique. If you care about the table you are using to practice on, you should consider using a spare piece of cloth to limit the possible abuse and future repairs.

There are a variety of shots and techniques players use to navigate around interfering balls. Masse is one of the more common techniques, but I would recommend casual players and beginners to steer clear of it and try to focus on your regular game. The fancy stuff can come later once you have truly mastered the fundamentals of the game. Of course, it is every pool players dream to be the next well known trick shooter, but until you have a solid form and developed techniques, it’s best to save the “pretty” shots for last.

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By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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How To Be Consistent At Pool

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

Consistency is the art of being able to perform at will, in a harmonious connection with our thoughts and actions. Confidence is a prerequisite for consistency. Confidence is nothing more than having faith in our abilities. Faith that we can and will achieve a certain task or goal.

Most players are working to bring consistency to their game. After all, if they could perform the way they are capable of performing, and do this every time, they would win more games, raise their league average and win more tournaments. If you are an inconsistent player, you are having problems in your fundamentals. An inconsistent player does not hit the cue ball the same way every time. And once you miss-hit the cue ball, your mind begins to play tricks on you. You start to think you are having mental problem, something is wrong with you, and then you begin to get down on yourself. You go into a slump. You have no confidence. Your stroke is unsure and tentative and things can only get worse. You begin to change your stance, your grip, your style of play.

If you hit the same shot the exact same way every time, you will become a consistent player. If you can trust yourself to turn in a fine performance, you will win more games, more tournaments, and raise your league average. In addition, you will enjoy this game. Consistency is worth working for. And it takes a professional approach to the fundamentals in order to achieve consistency in your game.

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First of all, you need a good grip. Grip is directly related to a good stance. You cannot have a good grip with a poor stance. Remember, the true measurement of a good grip and stance is in the quality of hit. The grip and stance must work for you.

Your stance must put you in position to see the angle of the shot. If you have having a hard time seeing the shot, it can be corrected in your stance. It must be well balanced. If someone pushes you while you are in your stance, you should not fall over. For right-handers, your right shoulder needs to be in a direct line with your target.

Once your mind is diverted from the fundamental approach to shooting balls, you will have problems. It all comes down to the one shot in front of you. Nothing more than the shot you are facing. And in order to succeed with that shot, your eyes must be coming right out of your stance. You see the shot, and you shoot the shot and the ball goes in. Keep doing this until you run out of shots.

The day will come when you can use something you read about here to have a beneficial impact. Then you’ll be glad you took the time to learn more about Pool Billiards.

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By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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Pool Table Maintentance

Sunday, May 9th, 2010

So what is Pool Billiards really all about? The following report includes some fascinating information about Pool Billiards–info you can use, not just the old stuff they used to tell you.

After spending days upon days and dollars upon dollars for your pool table, you should know how to care for it so it will last a life time. Not maintaining the table will affect your overall game and cost you a bundle in needed repairs. Take some small and simple steps to avoid having to pay for repairs on your investment.

If you have a new table, the cloth may interact with the roll of the balls for the break in period. This is completely normal, but to speed up the break-in process, it helps by brushing the cloth as frequently as possible. The table, new or used, should be brushed before and after every game played. Be sure to always brush the cloth in the same direction and never use circular motions. The surface may be vacuumed if necessary, again, always in the same direction. To avoid exposure to humidity, spills and other hazards, it is recommended that you cover the table when not in use.

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Avoid excessive ball build up or storage in the pockets of your table. The balls will wear out the cloth around the pockets if they cannot drop freely inside. Stored balls for lengthy periods may also stretch the pockets depending on what material they are made from. If your table was made with leather used to create the pockets, ball build up will deffinitely affect the shape of the pockets over time. This may not happen so much if the material is weaved or made of mesh, but it is always a good idea not to let the balls build up regardless of the material used.

If your table has a natural wood finish, it should be dusted and cleaned frequently. Your investment may be for entertainment, but it is also a piece of furniture and a possible heirloom. Wood finishes can be restored by using a non-residue forming dusting agent, such as lemon oil. Never use a cleaner that contains ammonia as it can chemically damage the finish. Though it is possible to re-finish the wood if staining occurs, it is best to prevent that as much as possible. Taking general care of the wood on the rails will lengthen the life of the table and reduce the possible cost of repairs in the future. Considering the cost of your investment, it is wise to care for it in a way that will allow you to enjoy it for years to come.

If you have your table stored in a recreation room where food and drinks will be present, try to encourage the use of coasters. Never set a can, glass or bottle on any part of the table. The moisture will cause damage and will also leave stains. A no food or drink policy is often in place at local pool halls, and they are never allowed near tournament tables. One final thing to remember, do not sit or stand on any part of the table. Aside from possibly injuring yourself, you will affect the table leverage and the balls will not travle as they should. Always keep unnecessary weight off of the table, both during play and not.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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What Is English or Sidespin?

Saturday, May 8th, 2010

When most people think of Pool Billiards, what comes to mind is usually basic information that’s not particularly interesting or beneficial. But there’s a lot more to Pool Billiards than just the basics.

English or Sidespin is an advanced technique in pool and refers to spin that is put on the cue ball. You can apply English or sidespin in a number of ways. It all comes down to aiming at the cue ball in different spots other than the straight center shot. You can hit the cue ball on the left side which is normally called LEFT English or you can hit the cue ball on the right side normally called RIGHT English. You can also apply the stop (center ball hit), draw (below center hit) or follow (above center hit) with English. English applied with draw is normally called low English while English applied with follow is called high English. The left and right English shots will cause the ball to spin to either side.

This is commonly refered to as inside or outside English. This technique is used primarily to alter the natural roll of the cue ball, thus causing it to curve to the desired side. This can be of use if you have ball interfering with a straight on shot, or if you are looking to deflect the cue ball in a different direction.

Another effect of english is what is known as “Curve” or “Swerve”. When a cue ball is hit low with a downward stroke using english, the cue ball tends to curve instead of moving in a straight line. This is a similar effect, though to a much lesser degree, to the masse shot. The direction of the curve will be the same as the direction of the spin. That means that if you have a low right english on the cue ball, it will curve to the left and back to the right. If you have a low left english on the cue ball, it will curve to the right and then back to the left.

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There is also another effect of english that is known as “throw”. When a cue ball with sidespin hits the object ball, the spin is transferred to the object ball but in the opposite direction. For example, a cue ball is hit with right english so it spins to the right or counter-clockwise… upon hitting the object ball, an opposite spin (clockwise) is transferred to the object ball. The spin generated by the object ball causes it to be “thrown” to the direction opposite the spin on the cue ball.

One thing that makes english difficult is that it is hard to estimate the amount of deflection that you will get on the cue ball. Only with enough experience will you be able to make a good estimate. Players should concentrate on the centered shot and have it mastered before attempting to integrate English shots into their repertoire. Like all shots and techniques, you will need time and patience to develop your style and become successful at completing these shots.

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By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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How To Maintain Your Cue Tip

Sunday, May 2nd, 2010

Imagine the next time you join a discussion about Pool Billiards. When you start sharing the fascinating Pool Billiards facts below, your friends will be absolutely amazed.

Aside from protecting your cue from humidity, the other caution you must take is caring for your cue tip. Since the tip is active in every one of your shots, it is of utmost importance to have a good tip at all times. The cue tip is also very important to keep clean. It’s cleanliness will affect backspin, accuracy, touch, smoothness of stroke, and precision of each and every shot that you take. When the pool cue is not in use, it should be maintained by by protecting the cue’s tip from any foreign dings, scrapes, gouges, or anything else that may otherwise be of potential danger. Finally, you must remember that the tip itself should always be covered when not in play.

The spin/speed ratio on the cue ball depends primarily on the actual tip-ball contact point. You seldom want to hit the ball right in the middle, you don’t want to miscue, and you want to have precise control of the spin. Therefore, a rounded tip is better than a flat tip. You shape the tip with a tip scuffer, a file, a piece of 400-600 sandpaper, and other similar abrasive tools. Most players like their tips rounded.

In the case of well-rounded tips, miscues occur when the tip slides on the surface of the ball. Along with other reasons, this happens when the tip doesn’t hold chalk. The tip doesn’t hold chalk when it is packed down from hitting the cue ball and the surface is slick. If you tap the tip to give the surface some texture, it will hold the chalk better. You can buy special tools to tap the tip, or you can use a rasp, or a coarse file, or coarse sandpaper glued to a wood backing can be rolled over the tip surface. Scuffing with sandpaper also works, but it wears the tip away too fast. For maximal tip life, tap more, scuff less.

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Tips can also mushroom, meaning that the leather bulges at the sides so that the tip is wider than the ferrule. Most pool players prefer to remove this bulge. The best way is to use a lathe, but there are other methods too. Fine sandpaper (600 grit or finer) can be used, but some care should be taken not to scratch the ferrule. Cutting tools designed especially for this purpose are available, and pocket knives and razor blades can also be used, but utmost care should be taken to avoid ferrule damage. After the mushroom bulge has been removed, the edge of the tip can be polished by wetting the sides and rubbing the leather edge firmly against the cloth on the top of a cushion or against a leather pad.

It is also important to maintain not only the tip, but also the ferrule. Over time, chalk, dirt, and other foriegn substances can build up on the ferrule and will embed on your pool cue like a tar substance. Cleaning the ferrule and tip of your pool cue regularly, by simply wiping it down (ensuring that you fully dry it off) can help to prevent this buildup from occuring. This will make for a smoother, cleaner, and better playing shaft, which can only serve to improve your game, and extend the pool cue’s life span.

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By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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Master Your Cue Grip

Monday, April 26th, 2010

The most important technique learned and the one that should be mastered first is the grip. The casual player has a different grip than that of a professional player, but in either case, if your game is to progress, you must master your grip. It should be comfortable, relaxed, and remain fairly consistent throughout the range of the stroke. A relaxed grip is usually best since too tight of a grip can tense up muscles in the arm that can cause your stroke to perform erratically. Likewise, too loose and you could lose control.

One way is to play with an all finger grip where all five fingers remain in constant contact with the butt all the way through the stroke and never alter except for perhaps a slight squeeze on contact with the cue ball. This method requires the cue arm to be perfectly vertical at address of the cue ball or the cue will lift on the backswing causing a scooping motion. This is the most common way to grip a cue stick among beginners and casual players, and allows the most control. Do not put your thumb on top of the cue, because this will lock up your wrist, and it’s very important for your wrist to stay relaxed.

Most pros use a different grip, only the thumb and first finger remain constant , the others flex open on the backstroke and close on the forward stroke. This has the effect of tracking the cue and keeping it on line, also greatly increasing cue ball control and cue power. On the final backswing the little finger practically comes off the cue altogether, this allows the cue to remain flat , on the follow through the fingers all close and return to the original position.

No matter what style grip you use, it is important to keep your grip loose and relaxed. This will allow you to follow through on your stroke. A proper grip allows you control and accurate shots. Bad grips will limit your potential for improvement. At all times, your cue should feel well balanced in your hand. For normal shots, your hand should be in the center of the wrap. For shots that require more “touch” and accuracy, try moving your hand forward on the wrap, shortening the length between your bridge hand and the ferrule. For shots that require more power, try moving your hand back on the wrap, lengthening the distance between your bridge hand and the ferrule. Always remember to stay down and follow through on your shots.

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The key to determine your grip is to find the balance point of the cue. To find the balance point, take your index finger and balance the cue stick on it so that it teeters on its own. Once it is balanced, take a mental note of the point on the cue stick where your finger was holding it and use this as your balance point or reference point. In general, but depending on how tall you are, you should grip the cue at least six inches back from the balance point towards butt end of the cue stick. Shorter players should place their grip hand slightly closer to the balance point we found earlier, while taller players should put their gripping hand a greater distance away from the balance point. This process will eliminate the chance of developing a bad grip and will start your beginners’ career off on the right foot.

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By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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How A Cue Stick Is Made

Friday, April 23rd, 2010

The best course of action to take sometimes isn’t clear until you’ve listed and considered your alternatives. The following paragraphs should help clue you in to what the experts think is significant.

The most essential piece of equipment for the game of pool is the cue stick, or simply the cue. It is a tapered stick typically 58 inches long and ranging between 18 and 21 ounces. They are primarily made of wood, but occasionally covered with other materials such as graphite or fiberglass. The length and weight can be altered to create a custom cue for the professional player.

There are three different types of cue sticks. One type is the one piece cue. These are generally for the casual player and often stocked in pool halls. They have a uniform taper and standard length and weight. Another type is the two piece cue. This is usually divided in the middle and screwed together. The two piece cue makes for easy transport and storage in a case. The third type is also a two piece cue, but the joint is not in the middle, but further down on the butt, about 1/3 from the end.

There are different parts or pieces to a cue stick, all of which you should become familiar with. The shaft is the smaller, tapered end of the cue, and the butt is the wider, heavier end. When using a two piece cue, the pieces are attached at a joint which is made up of a screw coming from the butt that is screwed into the shaft. The joints can be made from an array of materials from plastic, wood or aluminum to bone or antlers for more expensive sticks. It serves the same purpose, to join the tow pieces together.

On the shaft, you will find the ferrule and the tip. The ferrule is the piece of white plastic immediately below the tip. It can be made of different materials. Most commonly it is plastic for the casual player and brass for the more experienced player. The tips come in a variety of sizes and shapes, and can be custom rounded to suit your needs. Tips are primarily made of leather and are available in different hardness grades.

The information about Pool Billiards presented here will do one of two things: either it will reinforce what you know about Pool Billiards or it will teach you something new. Both are good outcomes.

The butt of the cue is where you will find your weight. Whether you play with an 18 oz. cue or a 21 oz. cue, the weight is all in the butt. The cue butt is often the area that is most ornate. Many sticks have carvings, leather grips and various other inlaid objects that appeal to the eye. They add nothing to your game but a sense of pride when you pull out your dazzling cue and start a game.

Lastly, and often the most overlooked piece of a pool cue is the bumper. This is a round rubber piece attached to the butt. It offers protection when you place your cue down and also reduced the vibrations that travel through the cue on impact. On pricier cues, the bumper is made of leather.

Choose a cue that is comfortable to play with, not for it’s looks. You want quality, not a show piece.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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What’s The Difference Between Pool And Billiards

Thursday, April 15th, 2010

When most people think of Pool Billiards, what comes to mind is usually basic information that’s not particularly interesting or beneficial. But there’s a lot more to Pool Billiards than just the basics.

Historically the umbrella term for the sport as a whole was billiards. While that familiar name is still employed variably as a generic name for all games, the word’s usage has splintered into more inclusive competing meanings among certain groups and geographic regions. For example, in the United Kingdom, billiards refers exclusively to English Billiards, while in the United States it is sometimes used to refer only to carom games and by a minority to eight-ball (being the only cue game known to many players).

In our time, the two can easily be exchanged and mean the same thing. When people refer to one, it is assumed the other is also being included. On the technical side, there is a difference. Billiards is played with smaller balls. In billiards, only three balls are used white, yellow and red and both the white and the yellow ball can act as the strikers. Billiards is basically pool without pockets. Usually the cloth on a billiards table is much faster. The object in billiards (3 cushion billiards) is to hit the object ball then go three rails and hit the other ball, or hit 3 rails and hit both object balls with the cue ball (these are called caroms).

Knowledge can give you a real advantage. To make sure you’re fully informed about Pool Billiards, keep reading.

Most of us are familiar with pool and pool tables. Some of us may be aware of the different variations of the pool game, a few being eight-ball, nine-ball and cut throat. As stated above, billiards is played on a table with no pockets. We know that pool tables are constructed with 6 pockets. The game is played with two sets of balls, each containing seven balls, with one set being solid colored and the other striped. The two sets are combined into one set and then completed by a black eight ball. This is a standard set of pool balls, and can be broken up to play different versions of the game.

Though there are vast differences between the two games, they are commonly grouped as one and refered to as cue sports. If someone says they’re going to shoot a game of billiards, we all know what they are referring to in general. It all depends on what style of the game you would like to play. Billiards is a form of pool. So perhaps in future reference, it should all be covered by using the term pool, unless you are actually playing by billiards rules and regulations.

Those who only know one or two facts about Pool Billiards can be confused by misleading information. The best way to help those who are misled is to gently correct them with the truths you’re learning here.

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Why Use Chalk Playing Pool?

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

Imagine the next time you join a discussion about Pool Billiards. When you start sharing the fascinating Pool Billiards facts below, your friends will be absolutely amazed.

There are two types of chalk used during play. One is applied to the cue tip. The other is rubbed onto the players palm. Both forms of chalking aid the players’ game, and both serve different purposes.

We’ll start with the question of why players chalk their cue tips so often. If you are a beginner, you will quickly learn how and when to use chalk. The primary function of chalking the cue tip is to prevent a miscue by the tip sliding off the ball. You will notice that most players will use chalk before every shot. On some occasions, more chalk will be applied if the shot being made requires English or some other type of spin. The application of the chalk will aid in your initial contact with the cue ball and will help to prevent you from making a bad shot. This commonly seen little cube of chalk will become your best friend as you progress as a player. Cue tip chalk is made by crushing silica and the abrasive substance corundum or aloxite into a powder and using forced air to achieve the desired consistency. It is combined with dye (originally and most commonly green or blue-green) and a binder (glue).

Finally, hydraulic press is used to compress the “chalk” into large cakes which are dried on a rack, and then cut into small cubes, dimpled on the top to receive the cue tip, and wrapped in paper sleeves. Each manufacturer’s brand has different qualities, which can significantly affect play. High humidity can also impair the effectiveness of chalk. Harder, drier compounds are generally considered superior by most players.

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The other type of chalk is applies to the hands. This is not seen as often, unless you are playing at an experienced or professional level. Many casual players opt to play bare hand without applying chalk or using grip gloves. Hand chalk can be used to reduce friction between the cue and bridge hand during shooting, for a smoother stroke. Some brands of hand chalk actually are made of compressed talc. Hand chalk comes in two forms – as a solid and in powdery talc form. The cone-shaped chalk shown below is a popular style seen in many bars and pool halls. The portion of the bridge hand that contacts the cue shaft is rubbed across the cone and the chalk transfers to the hand. The use of hand chalk or talc is entirely up to the player. Where cue tip chalk must be used, hand chalk is totally optional.

Chalking your cue tip is essential to playing the game and maintaining control over your shots. Don’t ever overlook the step of chalking up before a shot. You will find that if this is omitted, the majority of your shots will be miscues and your accuracy will suffer. Hand chalk is a personal preference. Many professional players prefer to use a slick pool glove over hand chalk or talc because of the messiness of the powders. Another way to avoid use of hand chalk is to simply use a hand towel. All three of these things serve the same purpose. The drier your hands are, the better control you will have over your cue stick.

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